7 FOOTWEAR STYLES EVERY MAN SHOULD OWN
It’s often said that the first time you meet someone, you’re judged on a number of factors – with three of the main counts being your hair, your handshake and, arguably most important, your footwear.
Whether it’s a job interview or a first date, if you’re hoping for approval from a prospective employer or potential love interest, you’re probably not going to get it when they glance down to see a rather sad-looking pair of battered old winklepickers.
“But there’s too much choice!” we hear you cry. With a seemingly never ending array of footwear styles available both in stores and online, shopping for shoes can be overwhelming. Fear not, with the help of some of the biggest names in British shoemaking, we’ve whittled down the bulk to seven essentials.
THE BLACK LEATHER OXFORD
There is no golden rule or set formula for building the ‘perfect shoe collection’, as tastes are bound to differ. However, it pays to be ready for every eventuality, and that includes ones involving suits. In which case you’ll need a black leather Oxford.
To get technical, the Oxford name refers to a closed-lace shoe, where the quarter (the piece of leather which the laces go through) is stitched under the vamp (the front part of the shoe). If you can run your finger underneath the last two lace holes, what you actually have is a Derby shoe.
It might seem like a needless thing to point out, but the lacing system is what gives the Oxford (or the Balmoral, if you’re in Scotland) its snug fit and clean finish, making it the most formal shoe type of all.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
“An Oxford should be worn with grey or black formal trousers,” says Grenson creative director Tim Little. “Make sure the toe shape is right. Too pointy and you look like a spiv, too round and they look clumpy. A nice almond shape is what you’re looking for.”
RECOMMENDED BRA
THE BLACK LEATHER OXFORD
There is no golden rule or set formula for building the ‘perfect shoe collection’, as tastes are bound to differ. However, it pays to be ready for every eventuality, and that includes ones involving suits. In which case you’ll need a black leather Oxford.
To get technical, the Oxford name refers to a closed-lace shoe, where the quarter (the piece of leather which the laces go through) is stitched under the vamp (the front part of the shoe). If you can run your finger underneath the last two lace holes, what you actually have is a Derby shoe.
It might seem like a needless thing to point out, but the lacing system is what gives the Oxford (or the Balmoral, if you’re in Scotland) its snug fit and clean finish, making it the most formal shoe type of all.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
“An Oxford should be worn with grey or black formal trousers,” says Grenson creative director Tim Little. “Make sure the toe shape is right. Too pointy and you look like a spiv, too round and they look clumpy. A nice almond shape is what you’re looking for.”
RECOMMENDED BRANDS
Affordable: Aldo, Clarks, Topman
Premium: Dr. Martens, Kenneth Cole, J.Crew
Luxury: John Lobb, Crockett & Jones, George Cleverly
THE BROWN LEATHER BROGUE
While broguing may sound like a dance class for men with too much time and testosterone on their hands, it’s actually a time-honoured shoemaking technique that you’re probably already familiar with.
These perforations, which come in several different designs, were originally designed to let water out while the wearer was wading through boggy Gaelic farms. But here’s where things get complicated: because broguing is a technique rather than a shoe itself, Oxfords can be brogues, as can Derbies and wingtips.
As a general rule, more holes equals more casual. So if you’re looking for something the will take you from the boardroom to the bar, opt for a semi-brogue, which lacks the W-shaped toe design.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
“Brown brogues are a true British classic and every wardrobe should have a pair,” says Little. “Look for a round toe on a chunky sole to wear with jeans, or a more elegant almond-shaped toe with a leather sole to wear with a suit.
“Tan is the classic colour, but if you want to be more discreet, try a darker brown. Look for leather that appears burnished as it looks more luxurious and will get better with every polish.”
RECOMMENDED BRANDS
Affordable: Marks & Spencer, Dune, River Island
Premium: Oliver Sweeney, Paul Smith, Ted Baker
Luxury: Church’s, Tricker’s, Thom Browne
THE SUEDE LOAFER
Despite being synonymous with dressing like JFK, the invention of the loafer has nothing to do with the preppy Ivy League, nor the humble loaf of bread (shoe-naming is often a very literal business, after all).
The first pair on record was designed in the early 1930s by a Norwegian named Nils Gregoriusson Tveranger. He based his Aurland shoes on traditional fisherman’s slip-ons and Native American moccasins, and in turn these formed the basis for the iconic Weejuns by American cobbler G.H. Bass.
Complete with a diamond-shaped cut-out, the penny loafer has survived almost unchanged since then, alongside smarter tassled and horsebit versions. Though leather is a common choice, soft suede is arguably the more versatile option.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
“The classic aesthetic of a suede loafer lends itself to more tailored attire and can be worn with socks, or without, for a sharp summer look,” says Mr Porter senior shoe buyer David Morris. “If you’re after a smart-casual style, try a suede penny loafer in a dark brown or tan that can be worn with a pair of slim-leg chinos or shorts.”
RECOMMENDED BRANDS
Affordable: G.H. Bass & Co., H&M,
Premium: Brooks Brothers,
Luxury:
THE WHITE LEATHER LOW TOP
Observers of men’s style love to talk about the biggest and best sneaker trends of the day. But if most had to choose just one to immortalise, there’s more than a chance it would be the white leather low top.
The slick style has been typified in recent years by the Adidas Stan Smith. First introduced in the early 1960s as the Robert Hallilet, the shoe picked up its current moniker in 1978, but only over the past decade has the white tennis shoe has become ubiquitous.
Today, every brand worth its salt has its own take from sporty to ultra-minimal, to be worn with everything from shorts to tailoring.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
“If wearing white low-tops with a suit, keep them as pristine as possible,” says Little. “Other than that, they truly do go with everything.
“To keep your sneakers clean, avoid wearing with raw denim, but that’s the only real no-go. Pair them with flannel trousers and a merino sweater for a smart-casual vibe, or with chinos and a bomber on the weekend.”
RECOMMENDED BRANDS
Affordable:
Premium: Common Projects, Grenson, Polo Ralph Lauren
Luxury:
RETRO TRAINERS
Today, a pair of running shoes can pack as many tricks and treats as the electronic rectangle in your pocket. Which is great for actual running, but not so much for styling out the weekend.
Fortunately, it’s pretty easy to travel back in time, sneaker-wise, to an era where runners were bold, colourful, and dare we say it, fun.
Retro styles like the
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
“Retro sneakers continue to stand the test of time thanks to their simple design and comfort level,” says Morris. “Styles like Vans’ canvas sneaker and Prada’s Milano are all versatile options for a dressed-down office look or a relaxed weekend vibe.
“Worn best with black or indigo denim and a classic T-shirt, these trainers add a touch of nostalgia to an everyday look.”
RECOMMENDED BRANDS
Affordable: Vans, Superga, Novesta
Premium:
Luxury: Prada, Balenciaga, Veja
THE LEATHER LACE-UP BOOT
A robust pair of boots is a formidable addition to any wardrobe, if for no other reason than they’re often built like the proverbial brick, well, you know.
Having shod the feet of soldiers, farmers and countless types of labourers, leather lace-ups will withstand whatever is thrown at them, be that an oil slick or the odd coffee spillage.
Reassuringly robust features like Goodyear welting and triple-stitched seams, found at brands such as Grenson and Red Wing, mean that a good pair will last a lifetime if cared for properly.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
“Make sure the leg is soft otherwise they will be painful to wear,” advises Little. “Stick to the workwear theme with rugged twill trousers rolled up. Smarter, slimmer-soled versions can also be worn with a suit, provided that the trouser leg is sufficiently narrow and cut to the ankle.”
RECOMMENDED BRANDS
Affordable: Clarks, John Lewis, Dune
Premium: Red Wing, Dr Martens, Oliver Sweeney
Luxury: Grenson, Cheaney, Moncler
THE ‘GOES WITH ANYTHING’ CHELSEA BOOT
“Chelsea boots are a classic that will never go away,” says Little, which is fair to say seeing as they’ve been around since the mid-19th century.
Originally designed by Queen Victoria’s shoemaker J. Sparkes-Hall as an alternative to lace-up riding boots, the Chelsea takes its current name from the well-heeled London borough where they became popular in the 1960s and 1970s.
Look for pairs made from just two pieces of leather or suede, a sign of good craftsmanship, and as Little suggests: “Make sure the elastic at the ankle is strong, as it’s always the first thing to go and is difficult to repair.”
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
“Chelsea boots works especially well with jeans or tailored, slim fitting trousers with a slight crop,” says Morris. “If you’re going to wear yours with formalwear, make sure the colour of your boot is complimentary to the colour of your suit and opt for a slimmer sole to keep your look streamlined.”
As versatile as they come, this is a shoe that doesn’t need to be kept too pristine, as the odd scuff or scratch only infuses them with a rock ‘n’ roll recklessness.
RECOMMENDED BRANDS
Affordable: ASOS, H&M, Marks & Spencer
Premium: Kurt Geiger, Dr Martens, Dune
Luxury: Saint Laurent, R.M. Williams, Crockett & Jones
4 EXPERT SHOE CARE TIPS
Few men know footwear like Tim Cooper. As a third-generation shoemaker and cobbler-in-chief at Oliver Sweeney, he knows not only about the importance of traditional craftsmanship, but that a good shoe can be made even better with the right care. These are his 4 expert tips to live by.
PICK YOUR POLISH WELL
“Choosing the right polish for your shoe is simple – always read the label. A good polish should be composed of natural ingredients like beeswax or carnauba wax. These components nourish the leather in the same way a moisturiser does your skin, preventing it from getting dry, cracking, and losing its lustre.”
PROLONG THEIR LIFE
“Once every four to six months, take some time to apply a rich conditioner to your shoe before the polishing process to prolong their life and get the best out of the leather. I’ve experimented with many different materials for polishing, but an old pair of tights gives a fantastically shiny finish.”
USE PROTECTION
“Whether it’s shoes or sneakers, use a hydrophobic spray to protect against the elements by keeping water molecules away from the top layer of the material. If you’ve worn them in the rain, allow the shoes to dry naturally, fill the toes with newspaper and whatever you do, don’t put them near a radiator or an open fire.”
KEEP IT CLEAN
“Always clean excess dirt from your footwear to prevent further damage. For general cleaning, use warm water, a clean cloth and a soft bristle brush. For more difficult areas, use leather cleaner product with a clean cloth and brush. Then, remove the cleaning product with a damp cloth and allow to dry.”
TRENDING ARTICLES
TRENDING ARTICLES
THE BEST DAD CAPS FOR LOOKING TOTALLY RAD
There’s seemingly no sartorial stone high-end designers will leave unturned in their endless quest to appropriate anything they can get their hands on. Case in point: ‘dadcore’ – a recent fashion phenomenon that transformed your old man from a perpetually tired, beige-wearing bloke into a straight-up style icon.
As a result, several fatherly wardrobe fixtures have achieved previously incomprehensible levels of cool. Think stonewash jeans, chunky trainers that look like they were designed by an orthopaedic doctor, and of course, the sort of shapeless curved-peak hats for men favoured by beer-bellied patriarchs on grilling duty. AKA, dad caps.
This trending topper became one of 2016’s hottest streetwear-meets-high-fashion pieces and has remained so ever since. That’s a pretty good run as far as supposedly fleeting fads go. So if you’d previously been apprehensive about forking out for one, now seems like a safe time to cop.
WHAT IS A DAD CAP?
The term dad cap has only been around for a handful of years, but the garment it describes has existed for much longer. Essentially, it’s a boneless baseball cap. A brimmed bonce cover lacking any modicum of skeletal integrity. Aside from that of the peak, of course, which must always be curved to perfection.
If traditional sporting headgear with stiff, structured panels has a habit of making your head look odd, or you find yourself saying, “baseball caps just don’t suit me,” on a regular basis, then a simple, low-profile dad cap is likely the lid you’ve been longing for.
It’s simple, more versatile than a snapback or trucker, and above all else, is relatively straightforward to style.
THREE KEY WAYS TO WEAR A DAD CAP
There’s a school of thought that says a baseball cap can only ever be pulled off with sportswear or, at a push, casual clothing. However, in a world of smart joggers and tailored swim shorts, it’s an idea that’s more than a little dated.
The truth is, there are a number of ways to wear a cap. Just ask Joshua Meredith, a stylist who honed his skills working for Notion Magazine and coordinating shoots with some of music and fashion’s biggest stars.
SMART
When searching for the perfect accessory to accompany your lounge suit, a baseball cap probably isn’t the first thing that springs to mind. However, worn with a bit of consideration, it can be done.
On your bottom half, length is key for deciding where on the spectrum of formality your look will land. “For a smart look with a dad cap, I’d go for a cropped tailored trouser,” says Meredith, who then suggests adding either a roll neck or shirt, a smart jacket and a pair of brogues to top things off.
For a more modern finish, swap the brogues out for a pair of white sneakers and the roll neck or shirt for a T-shirt tucked into the waistband.
CASUAL
Wearing a dad cap as part of a casual outfit is about as simple as it gets. As a laid-back lid designed to be thrown on with everyday clothes, simplicity is the key to nailing the look.
“Pair with tapered jeans, a T-shirt, cardigan and a fresh pair of trainers,” suggests Meredith for a layered outfit that’s ideal for switching between seasons.
Or, when the mercury begins it’s consistent and steady decline, swap out the cardigan for a cool jacket, or use both to add ballast to a long-sleeve T-shirt.
SPORTY
Though it can be easily dressed up, a dad cap will always have a place as part of a sporty look. “Keeping it simple with a two-piece tracksuit is a solid option,” says Meredith.
You’ll also want to give your footwear some consideration. A pair of chunky sneakers would work well here, but for an easy entry opt for a white, minimalist option. If the full tracksuit feels a bit much, stick the bottom half on the bench in favour of a pair of side-stripe trousers for a look that’s smart and sporty in equal measures.
THE BEST DAD CAPS TO BUY
FOLK
Folk cut its teeth in Glasgow and London, two of the UK’s hippest cities. In the years since it was founded in 2001, the British brand has become a master of stripped-back, contemporary wardrobe staples.
Considering that’s exactly what a dad cap is, it’s to be expected that the label’s brimmed offerings are some of the most subtly stylish to be found. Expect interesting textures, trademark attention to detail and branding so subtle it’s almost nonexistent.
CORRIDOR
Who understands the power of the dad cap better than the Queens family-owned workshop? Corridor understands, and that’s why their dad caps go beyond the rest. This NYC-native brand knows how to make the dad cap ready for the urban streetwear streets.
From their signature “New York, New York” to this cheeky “Souvenir of Coney Island,” these caps will have the sun out of your face all year long and are perfect for a casual summer day.
ASOS
If there’s a hot new item, chances are gargantuan online retailer ASOS will have a wallet-friendly version of it. The site’s sprawling collection of hats for summer and winter includes a dizzying array of dad caps featuring interesting textures, seasonal colours and added touches like embroidered motifs.
So, if sharpening your elbows to battle your way down the high street with endless shopping bags in tow isn’t your idea of a weekend well spent, this is definitely the place to go.
TOMMY HILFIGER
Tommy Hilfiger was a staple brand of the 1990s, famed for loud logos and in-your-face branding. Meanwhile, the dad cap is the minimalist’s headwear of choice. On paper, the two shouldn’t work together. In practice, however, it’s a very different story.
Rendered in cotton twill across a variety of colours, Tommy’s caps boast a more recent, scaled-down flag motif. The perfect option for those who want to rock a bit of noughties swagger without looking like Ali G.
CARHARTT WIP
If it hadn’t have been for the crossover between high-fashion and streetwear, the dad cap may have never enjoyed a resurgence. And when it comes to the latter, Carhartt WIP is one of the most important brands around.
The sub-label takes all the things that are great about Carhartt’s workwear and repurposes it for a younger, more urban crowd. That means more fashion-friendly dad caps and less ill-advised trucker hats.
THE NORTH FACE
Though it’s unlikely you plan on wearing a dad cap to tackle the north ridge of K2, if by some chance you did find yourself up there, you’d be happy it was made by the outdoor experts at The North Face.
The California brand has long acted as a bridge between the world of streetwear and the great outdoors. And that makes it a solid choice when it comes to picking a new hat that can stand up to the elements while camping out in the Supreme queue.
BALENCIAGA
At almost a century old, Balenciaga is one of the most esteemed names in high-fashion. In recent years, the Parisian label has dominated men’s street style galleries with its chunky trainers and logo-laden T-shirts cementing itself as one of the hottest trailblazers in the world.
Baseball caps are another key item. In fact, creative director Demna Gvasalia can often be seen sporting a dad cap himself. Featuring reappropriated logos and utterly ridiculous price points, Balenciaga’s caps are only for the most die-hard of fashion disciples.
PATAGONIA
The world is becoming increasingly ‘woke’. A big part of which is paying attention to the harm our modern lives are causing to the planet and taking steps to reduce it. It’s something that Californian outdoor brand Patagonia has based its entire business model on.
Expect solid quality, simple styling and through the brand’s Worn Wear program, you can even trade in your old items to receive credit on new stuff. All of which means you can sport one of its tastefully branded dad caps and feel good while doing it.
STUSSY
Streetwear is arguably the new haute couture. However, it wouldn’t be where it is now if it hadn’t been for an enterprising Californian surfer called Shawn Stussy, whose eponymous brand almost single-handedly sparked the movement that has infiltrated the upper echelons of fashion.
Being a streetwear firm, caps are a key part of Stussy’s output, whether that be 5-panels, snapbacks or in this case, dad caps. Script branding comes as standard, as does lots of people asking you where you got your hat from.
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